To eliminate the chance of the new baseboard being hung up by old nails and debris, I pull any nails left behind in the wall, scrape away caulk, and vacuum the whole area. If the baseboard comes off in long lengths, I cut it into shorter sections on the miter saw so it can be loaded into a barrel alongside broken pieces and shorter remnants for carrying to the Dumpster. If the baseboard splits or breaks in half, I’m not concerned, but holes made in the wall that won’t be covered by the new trim mean extra work. Unless the baseboard is being saved, my priority is to keep the drywall intact. With the room prepped, I remove any existing baseboard with a thin flat bar and a hammer. I protect the floor of the room with kraft paper-holding it off the wall by a few inches so that it won’t interfere with the baseboard-and seal doorways with plastic sheeting. If I encounter an out-of-square corner (greater or less than 90°), then I write the adjusted angle that will be needed. OR indicates an outside miter on the right end of the piece of stock, OL indicates an outside miter on the left end, and IR and IL are for inside-right and inside-left miters. I mark conventional inside and outside miters (90° angle) with the length and type of miter necessary on each end. I check all inside and outside corners with an angle-finder-an indispensable $10 finish-carpentry tool-to determine if off-angle joints are necessary. ![]() ![]() The next two columns are to indicate the type of cut needed on each end of every piece of stock. The first column is for length measurements, which I take along each wall at floor level. For consistency, I always start at a doorway and work clockwise. The installation starts with careful measurements and a detailed cutlist, which improves accuracy and reduces trips back and forth to the saw. at the least, I move all the furniture to the center of the room and cover it with a drop cloth, then I find a nearby spot to set up shop for cutting. ![]() Ideally, I remove all furniture and set up my miter saw and other tools right in the room that I’m working in. The only notable exceptions are that remodels typically include a bit more job-site protection, may require that I set up my saw outside or in a garage if the house is occupied, and likely involve removing the existing baseboard before installing the new. My process for installing baseboard on remodel jobs is essentially the same as it is in new construction. This two-piece installation takes a bit longer, but it provides more leeway for finesse when it comes to hiding waves in walls and keeping joints tight at corners, even if they aren’t square. My job is to make sure that the framers, drywall installers, and flooring guys who came before me look good, and that the painter who comes after me isn’t left with the task of hiding sloppy joints, excessive nail holes, and oversize gaps.Īlthough many houses are trimmed with a one-piece, shaped base-board that mimics the look of a traditional two-piece installation-a product known as speedbase-I still prefer the real deal: flat stock topped with a separate cap molding. In the world of building, finish carpentry is the second-to-last step before the homeowners move in-or in the case of a remodel like this one, before they reoccupy the room. Carpenter Nick Schiffer explains his typical installation process, which includes measuring, cutting, scribing, fastening, making splices, and cutting copes. ![]() Synopsis: Although often passed up in favor of speedbase-style single-piece baseboard, which is faster to install and less expensive, two-piece baseboard has several advantages: It’s better at hiding waves in walls, and it keeps joints tighter in corners.
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